Hobbies

How to make wooden rings

I had a go at making some finger rings out of scrapwood and was stunned with the high quality results. It really is an easy task to turn scrap into objects of beauty and value using only very simple tools.

The technique is simply to take a shaving from a strip of wood with a plane and glue it into a ring shape. Then a bit of sanding and polishing is all you need to finish things off.

Starting with the wood, an old pallet is an excellent  shape. You just need to shave a strip from the long narrow edge and you will have a long curl of thin wood to work with. As a plane I use a Rali hand planer which is small, cheap and really perfect for this task. It comes with spare blades so pop in a fresh one and run it along the wood. A length of about 50 cm is more than enough for one ring.

Now you need to wrap it round something of the correct diameter. I have big fingers so a wine cork is the perfect size for me to make a ring for myself. Smaller diameter dowel is easy to find and you can easily adjust the size down with sandpaper or up with a few turns of masking tape.

To finish preparation I wrap my dowel or cork with a bit of cling film to stop the ring getting glued to it.

So, to make the ring you just need to slap some PVA, or wood glue along the planed strip and tightly wind it around your dowel. Make sure to keep it even and tight as you go and when you get to the end, secure  tightly with a bit of masking tape. The whole process only takes a couple of minutes so you can do lots very quickly.

There are a number of websites where they recommend using superglue, but it is expensive and fiddly and there is always the risk of gluing your fingers together, so save yourself the effort and stick with easier cheaper and slower drying  glues. If you do use superglue, then go for the runnier consistency. There is a thick superglue that pours like honey. I tried it and didn’t like using it at all for wooden rings.

Leave the rings  to dry for at least 24 hours before removing the masking tape and taking the rings off the dowel.

Cut down to the width you require with a penknife or hacksaw. If you do put the ring in a vice, make sure to pad it well to avoid harming the ring.

Wood finger rings

Now you can begin shaping your rings with ever finer grades of sandpaper until you have the finish you desire. I work through 80 grit, 120, 200 and 400 grit papers. One important piece of advice is that you really should check that the ring is of an even width all the way round. The thickness is not too much of a problem, but an uneven width stands out.

Different pallets are made from a wide variety of woods  so try a few pieces and if you find a wood that gives particularly beautiful results, mark up the pallet so you don’t forget.

You can leave the outer surface flat or apply a curve. A combination of penknife and sandpaper is all I use to shape my rings, but you could work on a mini lathe or against a sanding disk.

A couple of coats of varnish (resanding with a very fine grit wet and dry paper between coats) will seal the ring. If you were using superglue then you could skip the varnish and just wipe on a few coats of more superglue which also gives a decent shiny surface.

Alternatively a wax polish is good if you want to retain the look of fresh wood.

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